We went skiing last Saturday with some friends of ours, in Schwaz, just across the valley from Stefan’s home town. It’s the only place I’ve ever skied, actually, because it’s just so convenient. In case you’ve never skied before, here’s what you need: long underwear, special padded socks, ski pants, a ski shirt, possibly some kind of undershirt (depending on the temperature, a ski jacket, goggles, a hat or helmet, warm waterproof gloves or mittens. And that’s just the clothes! Oh, and tennis shoes or something for driving in.
You also need poles, skis, boots and a sack for transporting the skis in so you don’t slice up your car’s upholstry. The skis have to be waxed before you go. All in all, it’s a lot of stuff. Then you throw everything in the car with the back seat down and head to the lift.
At the lift’s valley station, you’ll have to buy a ticket. We normally get a morning or afternoon pass, but you can buy individual rides as well. If you don’t go often, they’ll give you a little cardboard ticket you have to stick in the card reader at the turnstile, but we have key cards that the lift operator loads our ticket on. The key cards are then zipped into your left jacket sleeve, which you just wave in front of the card reader to unlock the turnstile. Not a bad idea at all.
This is wear skiing experiences (apparently) diverge. The lift in Schwaz is tiny and requires a few transfers. The first section is a one-seater, which is exactly what it sounds like. Essentially, chairs on handles hang from the cable about 25 feet apart. They don’t stop to let you on. Rather, you grab your skis (which are velcroed together) and poles under your arm, wait for a chair to pass and then step into the path of the next chair. The lift operator will normally steady the chair as you sit down in it and it whisks you away. Whisk might be the wrong word here, this lift is so ancient it moves very slowly. I’d estimate 5-6 ft per second. Once in the chair, the lift takes you up over the street and over a lot of people’s yards, into the woods and up the foot of the mountain.
If you’re a wuss like me, you’ll swing the safety bar/footrest around to in front of you. If you’re Stefan, you’ll sit with your feet dangling, up to 20 ft up in the air. Whatever you do, don’t drop anything. You often see lift tickets, goggles, gloves, cigarette packs, and so on right under you, which previous visitors have dropped.
At the end of the first section, the chair passes over a paved landing pad and you stand up and quickly walk to the right, out of the way of the chair. Then it’s on to the next section, which is also a single chair lift. Here, they normally shovel a little bit of snow onto the take-off area so you could put on your skis right away, but we normaly don’t. Repeat the process, this time going up a very steep incline, through the woods.
At the top of the second section, you are now at the bottom of the actual slope. Which means you have to take yet another lift to get to the actual start of the skiing area. First though, you put on your skis.
You undo the velcro, unhook them and throw them onto the snow in a more-or-less parallel position. When the boot latch is open, two little rubberized arms snap down to keep the ski from sliding away, which is great if you crash and lose a ski. You step into the binding and give a good kick down with your heel, almost like kickstarting a motorcycle. The latch should flip and grab your boot while also lifting the little safety arms away. Oh yeah, you should be doing this on relatively even ground or perpendicular to the slope. Next, the other one.
Then push yourself forward with your poles to the corral for the lift turnstile, wait your turn (or not, if you’re Austrian) and get on the last chair lift with a partner, since this is a two seater. Since skis are surprisingly heavy, you will definitely want to pull down the safety bar / footrest this time to keep your boot from being pulled off.
Not too far from the top, you emerge out of the forest and onto the slope, sneaking up on the tree line. If it’s a sunny day, the view will be amazing. All the exhaust from cars and heating systems and whatnot pools in the valley, looking like a thick yellowish fog. But up on the mountain, you are in fresh air with crystal clear views of all the other snow-covered peaks around you. Not bad at all!
At the end of this lift, you stand up on your skis and travel along a litte path from the lift to the slope. Just above you, the Hecher mountain inn has food and drinks and a nice sunny patio overlooking the slope. You get to the edge of the slope, stop to adjust your goggles, boot latches, etc, and then go.
Now, when on the lift and watching other skiers, they don’t seem to be going that fast. But when it’s me, it feels like I’m moving at just under the speed of light. I’m not a very good skier yet, so I have to make twenty little turns for every two Stefan does. The fewer you do, the faster you go. Occasionally, a lump of snow or an icy patch will make one or both of my skis wobble, skid or almost make me lose my balance, but I’ve gotten to the point where I don’t normally fall down anymore.
The slope is divided into long steeper sections and short flatter sections which are perfect for stopping to catch your breath. At the bottom of the first steep section, there’s a t-bar tow lift to take up to the Hecher Inn. This lift just has these upside down Ts hanging at intervals. You get into position, just like with the chair lift and then pull down a T and position the crossbar behind your butt. A spring-loaded tow cable gets pulled out of the middle part of the T until it reaches its limit and then pulls you forward, standing on your skis. Two people to a T.
When you reach the top, just let go of the T, which is wound back up to close to the cable. You can head right back down the slope or slide over to the Hecher Inn for some refreshments. This is great for me: because I’m not a very good skier, I can’t do as many runs as the rest of my group. So while they go down a few more times, I unlatch my skies and leave them with my poles in the snow, get a cup of mulled wine or a bowl of soup (traditional skiing fare) and set up shop on the patio on the south side of the Inn. They even have those beach chairs for lounging in, the folding kind with fabric suspended from the top and bottom crosspieces. And it’s not too cold, even when it’s below freezing, because you’re bundled up, out of the wind and in the intense sunshine that rarely completely penetrates the smog into the valley.
Skiing itself is getting to be fun, but it’s hard work for a beginner. Especially when you’re as old as I was when you first start (I was 24 I think). Most natives get their first skis when they are toddlers, and plenty of 4-5 year olds zip past me on the slope every time we go.
There’s just so much to remember when you haven’t yet internalized all the steps. Transfer weight to the outside ski, keeping most of your weight on the heel, not the toe. Bend your knees and really lean against the front of the ski boot. Keep your chest pointed downhill. Keep your hands toward the front. Watch out for other skiers. Careful of your speed. Don’t cheat on the turn by lifting the inside ski, that’s a recipe for a crash. It’s not as easy as it looks on TV. But I’m starting to think it’s worth it: when you’ve got a good run, the wind is whipping past you, the snow is powdery and freshly groomed – it’s not too bad.